I cannot believe how quickly these four months have passed.  When I boarded my flight in Boston on Labor Day, I did not know a word of Chinese, I knew no one else on the trip with me, and I honestly had no idea what I was getting myself into.  Although I certainly am far from speaking Chinese well, I have learned so much of the language.  I can communicate to a cabdriver and have a little conversation with the fruit seller—it’s in these menial communication successes where I have had some of my proudest memories.  Beyond the obvious language growth, I have grown so much as a person as I have opened my eyes to and lived in a culture completely different from my own.  In the process of economic growth and globalization, China incorporated many Western elements, but it is still China and still completely foreign.  There was no relationship with the West through so much of its history; therefore, most cultural elements have absolutely no relationship with the West either.   
A few times a week I would check the stats of my blog, and people consistently read throughout the semester.  It’s definitely a lot of work consistently updating this; many times I did not feel like writing, but I knew people were reading, so I kept on writing—thank you.  It has been so rewarding to take a break to reflect on the little things that are going on around me personally.  From the front page of the New York Times to the Christmas gift at Walmart, China is everywhere in the United States, and I hope I have given you some insights into China beyond these headlines and imported products.
Until I am home and talking about my time in China, my experience will not totally sink in.   I look forward to seeing most of you over the holidays and early into next semester to catch up and talk about my life in China.  I will probably write one or two more blog posts in the coming weeks, but if not, I wanted to thank you for reading throughout the semester.

Zaijian!

I honestly had not given any thought to whether or not the Chinese celebrated Christmas until I started seeing the holiday decorations and hearing the Christmas music.  Over the last few weeks, I’ve seen Christmas everywhere around the city.  Although the government does not support Christmas, it is gaining popularity among the wealthier youth in Chinese cities.  They don’t have Christmas trees in their apartments or family Christmas parties, but they are exchanging gifts with friends during the holiday season.  Although Shanghai definitely does not have “Christmas in the air,” there are a surprising amount of Christmas elements throughout the city.

At the end of November, Christmas decorations started going up first at the big malls followed by Santa Clause posters in many local restaurants and shops.  There is not much garland or green in the decorations, it’s mostly reds/silvers/whites with lights.  The award for “Most Chinese” decorations must go to Plaza 66, a shopping mall with every luxury brand imaginable next to my office on Nangjing Xi Lu.  Outisde of the mall, they have dozens of small, lit—only in red—fake trees, two massive sleighs with reindeer that were only made of lights, and then a massive, hollow, metal Christmas tree.  I’m not sure if the scene was supposed to be avant-garde or if they just misinterpreted Christmas decorations.
I’ve also noticed a fair amount of Christmas music in the decorated malls, but also playing in restaurants and small stores.  They play the standard Christmas carols in English, the remakes by Celine Dion (who they love here), but they also have Christmas carols sung in Chinese.  I didn’t believe my ears when I heard “Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer” in Chinese.
Christmas is just one more sign of the globalization that has shaped so much of this nation.

Over the course of the semester I have grown to love my street, Wudong Lu, and as I ride my bike to and from class, I have both observed and participated in the dynamics of this street.  I have become accustomed to the culture of this street, and in the last few weeks, I’ve realized just how much this single street captures and symbolizes so much of today’s China.  The street has it all: small, family owned Chinese restaurants; knock-off DVD stores; restaurants with cuisines from around the world; and of course, foreign money from foreign students.

Here are some of my favorite spots on Wudong Lu (in order of distance from my apartment):

Kathl Roll
This small Indian restaurant opened two weeks ago, and has been filled with foreign students every day.  The owners are two friendly men from India who know little Chinese.  The prices are higher than most restaurants on the street, but still less than six dollars for a very satisfying dinner.
This building has about twelve different store fronts, and they are continually turning over.  As more foreign students come to Fudan, the restaurants are getting nicer and more international; just last month a well-designed Japanese restaurant opened a few doors down from the new Indian restaurant.

SPR Coffee
I wrote a blog entry on SPR coffee, one of the largest Chinese chains; however, on December 1st, my SPR closed.  The store occupied one of the larger store fronts in this section of Wudong Lu, and after a few years, it was showing its age.  My suspicion is the landlord increased its rent, and I am guessing another new, international restaurant will open up soon.

The DVD store
The DVD store has thousands of Western and Chinese movies, as well as most American TV shows.  The selection of DVDs is limited to releases of the last three years, but they also have a handful of older, classic films.  I have bought about 15 DVDs that are about $1-1.50, and all, except two, have worked.  Since I only get Chinese television channels, it’s nice to be able to buy familiar movies for such a cheap price.

Lawson

Fruit Stand
I usually purchase fruit here every day.  Since my diet is based on rice, fatty meats and, oil-laden vegetables, fresh fruit is a nutritious necessity.  I usually get two bananas and two clementine/oranges for 4RMB, or less than one dollar.  One day I got three clementines, which was grounds for striking up a conversation with the shop keeper (in Chinese, of course).

Chuanr: Chinese Street Food
When the sun goes down, a handful of long metal barbeques come out to cook delicious street food.  Next to the barbeque is a table with a selection of different thin kebabs of vegetables or meats.  You make your selection, and then have them grill the kebabs, telling the “chef” how la (spicy) you want it.  I was hesitant to try food from the street at first, but over the last month, I realized just how good (and cheap) this snack is.

Red and White Stripes

No one knows the real name of this restaurant, but it quickly became one of our favorites.  In the first weeks, we didn’t know how to identify this specific Sichuan style restaurant, so we started calling it by the color of the waitresses’ blouses: red and white stripe.  This restaurant is home to some of my favorite dishes in China,  and I am always left more than full for under $3.

Banana
Banana (all three “A”s pronounced as “ah”) is a local Chinese night club on the corner of Wudong Lu.  It’s definitely not my favorite, but stopping by Banana late at night is always an interesting experience with the same soundtrack of techno songs playing, tons of lights and lasers, and mostly Chinese crowd.  Between the loud music and smoky atmosphere, I can only stay at Banana for a short time. It is definitely a must see for anyone visiting Wudong Lu.

On a somewhat hazy Shanghai afternoon, I visited the top of Shanghai World Financial Center-the second tallest building in the world with the highest observation deck. From virtually everywhere in the city, you can see this massive “bottle opener” building, and I have become quite familiar with its presence from miles away on the elevated subway to standing within its massive shadow cast across Pudong. The SWFC is centered at the heart of Pudong New Area, overlooking the architecturally rich Lujiazui business district (home to the Oriental Pearl and Jin Mao Tower) and the equally impressive Bund, the west river bank home to ornate, Western designed buildings from the early 20th century. Even though the SWFC was designed by American architects and financed mainly by the Japanese, the building has become a symbol of Shanghai’s power and position within the world.
Getting out of the cab at the World Financial Center, it was difficult to take in just how tall the building actually is. I walked by the Empire State Building in New York every day this summer, which will always feel tall, but the SWFC is nearly 400 feet taller. Due to its shape, the glass building feels totally different from each angle and its curves give it the illusion of going even higher.

The building’s architects thoughtfully designed the observation deck as a tourist attraction and carefully integrated it into the building. With clear signs on the ground level, you start the journey to the observation deck by first going down a long escalator to the first basement waiting area to purchase tickets. The prices range from 110RMB (approximately $15) to go to the 94th floor to 150 RMB (approximately $21) to go to the 100th floor-I elected for the 100th floor option. You then enter a series of waiting areas that are staffed by well dressed, English speaking employees who were enthusiastic about their job in China’s tallest building. Since it was a weekday and somewhat hazy, there was literally no line; however, earlier this fall, I’ve heard of the line snaking around the block with people waiting well over two hours to go to the top.

Once through the queue, it takes two elevators and an escalator to get to the hundredth floor. You get off the elevator that features a Chinese style light show on the 94th floor; compared to most elevators in China, this was very smooth, quiet, and fast. The 94th floor features a large room with big windows that can be rented out for any event or promotion. When I went, there was a temporary gift shop with a weak selection of expensive souvenirs. From the 94th floor you take an escalator up two floors to the bottom part of the “bottle opener.” There are windows on the sides and the roof that opens up. It’s a pretty stark space, but great first impression of the views. On this floor you enter the final elevator to the 100th floor observation deck.

Getting off the elevator at the top of the “bottle opener,” it is a long, somewhat narrow space. The floor is reinforced glass that is shaded in areas but completely clear in other areas. The windows angle outward, so you have to lean to look down. For the first few minutes, I felt a bit sick-we were very high up. Photos do not do the views justice, especially on such a cloudy day, but the views were simply incredible. You could barely make out the people on the streets; all the cars looked the same; and it was very neat to see “new” Shanghai from one side, and the rows and rows of communist housing from another side.
For anyone coming to Shanghai, a stop at the Shanghai World Financial Tower is a must. It gives a great perspective on just how massive the sprawling, the ever metropolis of Shanghai is. The SWFC will only remain the tallest building in Shanghai for another six years, when the 2208 foot Shanghai Tower opens across the street.

Of all the places I go to regularly in Shanghai, Lawson, a Japanese chain of convenient stores around Shanghai, has to be my most frequented place.  I first visited Lawson within hours of my arrival to Shanghai, and since then have faithfully returned two to three times everyday.  At first, Lawson seemed like any other small, 24-hour convenient store with drinks and snacks, fluorescent lights and vinyl flooring, and of course a distinct smell; however, over the last three months, I’ve realized how much this one store captures so much about my life in China.

The Purchases

Anyone who knows me, knows I often eat the same thing day in and day out—this is no different from the food I pick up at Lawson.  My top three daily purchases:

1)    Magnum Bar—a delicious Dove-like ice cream.  Besides very expensive Haagen-Dazs, China does not have traditional hard ice cream.  My 5RMB Magnum Bar adequately satisfies my need for ice cream.
2)    Aloe Yogurt.  This yogurt is similar to most yogurts in China.  It is a drinkable consistency and the aloe flavor is sweeter than plain yogurt but not as sweet as fruit based yogurts.
3)    Iced Green Tea.  Unlike most sweetened iced teas in the United States, the brand of green tea I drink here has perfected the amount of sweetness.  I can still taste the tea flavor, but it is sweetened just enough to be a refreshing drink.

The Smell

Entering the store, you cannot avoid its distinct, Chinese smell.  At the counter, they have 3-4 different pots filled with oil and different fried meats on sticks that local students always eat.  During the last few months, I have eaten some pretty bizarre foods, but I will never eat the hot food from Lawson.  I am not sure how often they change the oil, but I couldn’t imagine it is too often.

The People

The Lawson employees are what make this convenient store so great. 

The number of employees is always more than necessary.  Most of the day, the employees sit around on milk crates talking/yelling to each other.  There are two cash registers, but unless it is extraordinarily busy, only one person works behind the counter.  Sometimes I see the employees doing an inventory, but this is rare.  For months we’ve tried to figure out why they need six to eight people working at this tiny convenient store, but it just makes no sense.

My favorite Lawson employee works the evening shift.  He takes his job seriously and is the most careful person I’ve seen with money.  When he gives back change, he counts the change behind the register, then, instead of putting it in my hand, counts it back, double checks to make sure the bills aren’t stuck, and puts the change on the counter.  As the line grows behind me, I fumble to pick up the spread out bills and coin.  The process of checking out with this evening man is always slow, and no matter what, I cannot get him to put the money in my hand.

“Tai gui le,” which translates to “Too expensive,” is a phrase I have mastered living and shopping in Shanghai. With the exception of restaurants and chain stores, many places in Shanghai still allow/require bargaining for prices. Although initially very intimidating, bargaining has become an enjoyable, uniquely Chinese, hobby of mine. Many workers at markets and stores know basic English or at least have a calculator to negotiate over; however, it has become a lot more fun to bargain and yell in Chinese.

Last weekend I went to a newer market in Pudong that sells traditional Chinese gifts, toys, and knock off goods. I browsed around asking, “Duoshao qian?” to get a feel for the costs of the goods. At one stall, I asked the price of a Mont Blanc briefcase, and the store keeper said 700RMB. After going back and forth, I got her down to 250RMB (32USD), but still had no intention of purchasing it. As I was walking out, one of the women who worked there grabbed me telling me that she spent a lot of time and I had to buy it. I yelled back (in Chinese), “No. I’m a student with no money.” They kept insisting, and out of frustration I said I would take it for two-hundred. They gave it to me for 200RMB and I left aggravated with a bag that I really did not need nor want.

Even though sometimes you feel pressured to buy, bargaining is a way of life in China. Depending on the market and the product, the discount ranges from about 20-30% at the fabric market to over 90% at really touristy, gift markets. Even with great discounts, you almost always leave feeling like you overpaid.

A few weekends ago, I escaped crowded Shanghai to visit the home of a contact I have in the suburb of Songjiang Town.  Songjiang Town is one of nine newly created, still under construction towns, financed by the government and promoted as a solution to alleviate Shanghai’s increased overcrowding and poor standards of living.  Located in southwestern Shanghai about a 45 minute drive from downtown, Songjiang Town reminds me of suburban Florida with its grid layout, wide streets and canals, and gated golf communities.  It’s still unclear how many people will live in these satellite communities when they are completed, but all together, the number is expected to be in the millions.  My contact, a professor of religion at Fudan University, knows my enthusiasm for urban planning and real estate, so he planned an enjoyable afternoon touring Songjiang. 

University City

One of the highlights of Songjiang is its expansive University City.  When officially completed next year, it will be home to nine separate colleges and over 200,000 students who will share common housing, dining, and athletic facilities.  The schools will primarily focus not on a rounded liberal arts education, but on educating the scientists and professionals of tomorrow’s China.  The campus was impressive with beautifully designed buildings and grounds that were all well-maintained (something rare in China).  I am studying at the second best university in China, and in terms of aesthetics, this brand new campus blew Fudan away.

Thames Town

Thames Town is an entire planned community that is an exact replica of a small English country town.  Its residential areas mixes beautifully designed, 4000 square foot homes with four story apartment buildings featuring accurate detailing and abundant Western landscaping.  In the commercial area, the architects, designers, and builders captured the essence of England, albeit somewhat Disney-like, through its cobblestone streets, pubs, and even a replica church.  Despite being brand new, there is a definite attempt at creating history through varying buildings and architectural styles from different time periods.  Aesthetically, I was impressed by the choice of materials and details, but I am definitely not convinced that it was worth the USD750 million that it cost to build.

Thames Town showcases more than just China’s ability to copy; it also is an example the real estate speculation that has occurred in China over the last few years.  When properties went on the market in Thames Town in 2004, people slept outside of the sales office to own a part of this community.  Four years later, most of the town remains empty except for brides and grooms taking their wedding pictures.  Many who own properties in the town (including my friend who took me to Thames Town) remain convinced that in the coming years it will become successful as a tourist attraction when nearby University City is completed, but I am not convinced.  The prices for the single family villas are in the one-million USD range—far out of reach for most Chinese.  Even if it is marketed as a tourist destination, the shops and restaurants will need to have affordable prices, which is difficult to do with the cost of the buildings being so expensive.  The Chinese who could afford to buy homes or visit the town’s restaurants, boutiques, and galleries can actually afford to travel to Europe, so why would they choose to spend their money here?  It’s certainly an interesting case study of speculative, high-end real estate development in China.

Just when I thought I understood China and nothing could shock me anymore, I visited Shanghai’s new suburbs.  The overall design of the suburbs was strangely familiar and Western; it was based on an auto-centric culture with large streets, parking lots, and single-family homes with garages, just like US suburbs.  The expansive pre-professional college campus reveals a lot about what China believes higher-education should consist of, while Thames Town provides a solid example about China’s ability to copy and its recent real estate speculation.  Right now, at least in Songjiang Town, the suburbs are a playground for the newly wealthy Chinese.  I would love to come back in ten years to see how successful these satellite communities are at providing solutions for the overpopulation and poor living conditions of central Shanghai. 

On Sunday night, my Chinese teacher—a PhD candidate working on her dissertation on sign language—had the five first year students to her home for dinner.  She lives in a comfortable two-bedroom apartment fifteen minutes from campus with her husband, who is an English teacher at Fudan University, and her in-laws.  It was a very enjoyable Chinese evening with fantastic food in a very traditional, typical middle-class Shanghai home.

Ms. Lee’s home is exactly what I thought a Chinese apartment in this area would be like.  Her complex was built eight years ago consisting of a few dozen six-story buildings with around a thousand apartments.  The apartment is small, with traditional Chinese paintings on the wall, faux-wood furniture, and a big yellow leather couch and matching chairs.  Upon entering, we took off our shoes and they had slippers waiting for us.  Asian cultures do not allow shoes in homes, and every family I’ve visited has provided their guests with slippers.

The Chinese are famous around the world for their hospitality and pride in their home and cooking.  This evening was no exception.  Lee Laoshi and her mother-in-law prepared all fifteen dishes of the main meal, the homemade dumplings, and chicken soup for us while we peeled and cut the fruit for a salad (we were not allowed in the kitchen). The food, served family style, was some of the best Shanghainese food I’ve had.  Since they do not have ovens in traditional homes, everything was stir-fried in a wok with delicious local seasonings and spices from their hometown in Henan province, west of Shanghai.  Most of the dishes were vegetables, but we also had a tofu dish, a pork dish, and a couple noodle dishes—the food just kept coming out for two hours.  The dumplings were filled with lamb and vegetables, and the soup was a somewhat familiar chicken noodle soup.  Between the food, the wine, and their favorite tea, we were all very full.

I’m so glad we could visit Ms. Lee’s house and experience an evening in a typical home.  Even though we ate an abnormal amount of food, it is not a surprise why Chinese are traditionally thin and healthy; most of the food was vegetables with very little meat.  I eat Chinese food most days, but it is a totally different experience to have a home-cooked meal.

Located in the shadows of the Nanpu Bridge, the South Bund Fabric Market is the single most dangerous place in Shanghai.  Everyone who goes—from the Manhattan fashionista to the hipster who does not even own a suit—loses any form self control upon entering the building.  Opening at this location in 2006, the market covers three stories with hundreds of stalls, each specializing in suiting, wool/cashmere jackets, cotton shirts, skirts/dresses, or traditional Chinese silk wear.  Each stall has binders with pictures from not only the Vogues and GQs, but pictures of every single item from all the latest fashion shows.  All you have to do is to determine what you want made, choose the type of fabric, get sized, and then negotiate the price.  Most places have at least one person who speaks English, making it easy to explain what you want and arrive at a reasonable price.

Visit One
I came to the Fabric Market for the first time in mid-September.  I went with a friend who was picking up some suits and wanted to scope out what I wanted to have made.  I walked in and exclaimed that this was heaven on earth.  In addition to being able to get suits and dress shirts, you could get virtually any article of clothing made here for ridiculously low prices.  On the way home I made my list for the next time: 1 winter coat, 1 trench coat, 3 suits, 10 dress shirts.  I went home and spent the next few days scouring the web for the latest fashion pieces I needed.

Visit Two
I narrowed down my list and prioritized what I needed: a grey suit, a dark charcoal winter jacket, and three shirts.  After flipping through magazines and pointing to specific collars, fabrics, and cuts, I ordered the following:
1)      A suit modeled off a Burberry ad from last year in a light grey pinstripe wool.  It’s the perfect suit for a corporate job, but still fashionable enough for my tastes.
Asking Price: $103 Price Paid :$73
2)      A fully lined, dark grey cashmere jacket copied from a piece in the Versace Fall/Winter 2008 fashion show.  It still has very traditional Peacoat elements with a modern twist.
Asking Price: $131 Price Paid: $110
3)      Three dress shirts.  Two for work and one for going out.
Asking Price: $18/each Price Paid $14.60 each.

Visit Three
It takes about one week for everything to be made.  I went back and on the cab ride there vowed to my friend that I would not get anything else made.  After all, I already have tons of dress shirts and four suits, do I really need anything else?  I tried on everything and was blown away; in my 20 years, I had never experienced clothes before.  Since I am so tall and thin, nothing has ever fit me like it should—these dress shirts were actually long enough and did not look like a balloon when tucked in, my suit pants were long enough and did not need a belt, and when the jacket was unbuttoned, it still had shape to it.  I was about to hail a cab when I realized that even though I have enough dress clothes at home, I would never wear them again; these clothes were too perfect.  I went back inside and ordered another suit, black pants, and two more dress shirts.

Anyone who has shopped with me knows I am not impulsive and only stick to my lists; however, at the South Bund Fabric Market I literally lose all self control.  I could not even get a t-shirt in the States for the price of my perfectly fitted dress shirt; my suit looks like a spent well over $2000; and I am the only person in the world with a coat like mine.  Everyone on my program has gone to the Fabric Market multiple times to get multiple things made.  I honestly do not know how I will be able to wear off the rack clothes again—it’s easy to be addicted to these inexpensive, but completely custom clothes.

In addition to my classes, I also have an internship two days a week at Shanghai Centre.  Located in the heart of the Nanjing Xi Lu business district, Shanghai Centre is a western style business complex with the Portman-Ritz Carlton at its center, 400 full-service apartments, seven stories of offices, international restaurants, and luxury retail space.  I have been working directly with the expatriate managers and local employees learning about the many sides of operating a building, as well as understanding Shanghai Centre’s position in the ever-changing market.  The most rewarding part of my internship here is experiencing an international business culture with a mix of local and foreign employees.  Below are some things I found unique and interesting in a Chinese office.